Wagah Border, Amritsar, India

​At the Wagah border that separates India and Pakistan, the nationalist sentiments can be felt in the thunderous roars of citizens as they danced fiercely to the grand waves of the green-white-red flags.

I’ve always found borders somewhat intriguing. Being in a single space that showcases the imaginary line delineating the differences the minds conjure – ‘in’ and ‘out’, ‘Self’ and ‘Other’. I could feel the competing energies of my left (India) and right (Pakistan), and yet they come together every sundown to produce a passionate ceremony that marks the nightly closing of the border.

 

Some boys rushed towards me as I came out of the tuk-tuk wielding paintbrushes, fiercely swiping them on my hands as i tried to move away.

Seated at the corner, I sneak a peek at the Pakistan side

They seemed to have a smaller crowd (perhaps crafted by the deliberately arranged seating of the audience on the Indian side)

there was a man with 1 leg spinning on his single stature

As the ceremony ended, some Indians waved to the leaving Pakistan citizens. They wave back. An image of the Indian and Pakistan flag lowered together flashed in my mind. Competing energies, yet collusive in their ways. Who decided on such border ceremonies first?

After we stepped out into the roads when the ceremony ended it was vehicle after vehicle kicking up dust. So many people, so many motorbike rickshaws, so much honking with its persistent shrill ringing in the air.

I couldn’t find my motorbike rickshaw (of course, what was I thinking?) I walked on, hoping to spot the Kashmiri Father and his daughter. Too many people. With my sunken heart that drooped with the sinking sun I asked two men next to me if they knew how I could find my rickshaw, and if they were going back to Amritsar. In the brief English that we could exchange, I got a general idea that they were waiting for a ‘family’ and going back to Amritsar to catch a ‘train to Delhi’.

I stood with them, mostly in silence, waiting. We all waited, our eyes scanning the distance, hoping the next vehicle would be our ride. Cars after cars passed. One went by and my white shirt was slapped with orange. A drink. My left sleeve felt the cool liquid seeping in. I felt annoyance flooding into my bloodstream. Sigh. What a mistake. I could have been in the car right now perhaps.

One of the men offered me a towel. I smiled and refused.

The sun had set. It was extremely dark save for the light beams that captured the floating dust that layered the streets.
Finally, a vehicle arrived. I got on with them, a little apprehensive. I was relieved to see another 2 ladies on the vehicle.
I started chatting with the Indian couple and we shared on the ride back home.


Today I learnt: No Muslims in Punjab area – interesting considering they’re nearest to the border

Or perhaps that’s exactly why

‘I don’t have a single Muslim friend’

India/Pakistan border

Witnessing the high in each area

Seeing some Indians waving goodbye to the Pakistan people on our right

Muslims in Punjab? Muslims in India? Vs Hindus in Pakistan?

North vs South Indians – differences partially attributed to colonisation and location near the equator

Castes – marrying within the caste

Jobs associated with castes

Schools – some rural schools go to the extent of asking some children to wash their hands before touching others

Other than that they mostly don’t distinguish by castes

Castes can be distinguished by name

Dowries by women – sons have a value attached to them. If he’s a government official for example = worth more = can even ask for a car

Difficult to get a simcard here – because it’s the border area?

 

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