1.2 Diving in Tofo, Mozambique

stonefish

I remember feeling seasick. Putting on the somewhat familiar, somewhat unfamiliar BCD and taking deep heavy breaths through the regulator in a rhythm that echoed my beating heart.

As we rode along the waves into the middle of the sea, I waited as I did my jump off the boat, and the rest of the hour are snippets / a trail of memory – I tugged the rope towards me and swam downwards following the line, past the shells and the cloudy sea around me.

Skipped the deep dive after because the manta rays are apparently not found during this period

post-dive
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Didn’t manage to catch sight of manta rays, but Tofo beach made up for it with its empty stretches of soothing sand and waves β˜€οΈ

(thought: in a country with a life expectancy of 55 years, I have a chance of 27 more years than the average citizen here.)

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1.1 Tofo Beach, Mozambique

Didn’t manage to catch sight of manta rays in our dive, but had some good conversations.

I tried looking around for a postcard, but was unfortunately unable to find one – I thought touristy Tofo would have it. The lady at the dive shop explained that a guy tried selling it before, but it didn’t work out. This was partially because nobody really uses the postal system, which doesn’t really work; seems like you’d try to post something and it wouldn’t be received. No stringent enforcement of laws. This makes people displeased, no consistent structure, no order.

This made it flexible, but also made things difficult with unfixed conditions like these. It reminded me of a classroom, and my need to enforce these ‘laws’ to ensure peace, stability and efficiency – like what my country preaches.

The banana seller who has 12 children, had her first child when she was 18 years old.

A fruit seller along the coast of Tofo Beach // Ferdinado(?), a waiter we befriended, told us about how he picked up the skill when he was a child. Piped water wasn’t readily accessible in Tofo until 5-10 years ago, and back then the locals had to walk 1km to draw water from the wells. Some people can carry 25litres of water on their heads to endure the long walk. Once, his mother made him carry a 10kg bag of rice on his head as he walked home, and his head (‘headsick’) and neck ached painfully afterwards, so he told her ‘never again!’. And no, he wouldn’t carry eggs that way, he said with a chuckle when I asked.

 

 

a perfect silky sand canvas

 

 

 

I was also curious about the straw huts. Was it the climate or the abundance of materials that enabled straw instead of wooden slums?

Nonetheless Tofo felt safe. We walked along the streets at night , I slung my camera along my shoulders as I walked. A little more guarded when walking past some locals (men), but I felt generally confident they wouldn’t do anything to me, in a place this touristy. I considered why I felt this way, when I wouldn’t let my camera show in Maputo, which didn’t feel particularly unsafe either.

My first strand of thought was that in a place this accustomed to tourists and their flashy cameras, they’d probably be more or less attuned to this, and may lean more towards conversations such as ‘how are you’, ‘where are you from’, or recommendations for their own food and tour business opportunities. Viewing tourists as potential markets (not that hard) rather than potential to-rob targets.

Also, if they rob any of us, in a town this small, word may spread readily regarding this individual, or tarnish the reputation of Tofo as a tourist-friendly site, which may earn these aggressors a backlash from the community.

The car just drove past a group of 3 children pumping water from a well, and others working in the field.

It brought to mind yesterday’s conversation with Ferdinado (or something).

 

 

 

 

 

 

1.0 Maputo, Mozambique

sg – ethiopia – south africa

overnight bus (10pm) to Maputo, Mozambique

Bye bye South Africa!

​ Love overland border crossings, where I step across the imaginary lines to enter a new terrain πŸ‡²πŸ‡Ώ
The policemen stop our bus due to (apparent) issues relating to drivers’ documents. We wait for almost 4 hours (πŸ˜’), stepping out of the bus to soak in the cool breeze.


Awesome hosts and company πŸ™‚
#everydaymozambique We spent our day in Maputo with Luis and Irene.

​Maputo has been a wonderful experience with Luis and Irene. Luis was incredibly helpful even before we arrived, asking about our schedule to help us to plan in a way that allowed us to enjoy the city with the short time that we had. He’s funny and intelligent, and Irene is really sweet, and I really enjoyed our conversations and the stories they shared. They took us on a drive around the city, and showed us the various sites, including a newly opened mall and another market / museum, which was very lively. They are a very popular couple and seem to know everyone around :p They also made us Asians happy with the Super-cool arcade game devices (!!) brought back so much nostalgic memories! Hahaha we got a little too excited and they were kind enough not to mind our late dinner :p Maputo is made different because of you guys, truly, thank you for the memories, great conversations, food and time well-spent together. You guys are truly awesome!!

An Intercape bus stop sign in Mozambique.

View from inside a mini-bus. Armed with soft drinks, snacks, bread and others (knives), sellers call eagerly to the buses for their sales.

I have to admit – I found myself staring, almost in amusement, at the ways the women and men were nonchalantly carrying bread with their heads.

Like other SEA countries, they set up their fruit stalls and sat in a row to sell them to passing passengers. What intrigued me was seeing the villagers going about their daily activities, carrying a bundle of sticks on their heads as they walked. I’ve seen women carrying their luggage bags, bread, a ‘bowl’ of soft drinks, and now sticks! It was somewhat amusing, and I wondered about the origins of this practice and how they managed to do so so readily.

Huge supermarket in a gleaming month-old mall.

One of the funniest / worst stories was the one where their teacher spent their physical education lesson time writing a textbook, leaving them to play on their own, and then after publishing his book, made all of them purchase it with their own money, saying it was compulsory for the subject.
Rising past the landscapes of Mozambique as we travelled from Maputo to Tofo, I took in the sights of the straw houses / slums, the shops, the dressing of the people…

AFRICA!

One of my favourite trips to date. It brings back fond feelings as I carry with me all the (mis)conceptions, broken, now that I’m back.

“Bush is not alone in thinking that Africa is a single nation. Often, people refer to Africa as a country, when instead it is a hugely diverse continent comprised of 54 independent nations. Each country has its own currency, flag, anthem, history, cuisine, music, identity and blend of cultures. In fact, more than 2,000 languages are spoken in Africa, and its 1.2 billion inhabitants represent more than 3,000 distinct ethnic groups. Africa is also bigger than most people think it is, with a total area of 30,244,049 square kilometers/ 11,677,239 square miles. It is the second largest continent on Earth, both in terms of area and population, and the USA, China, India, Europe and Japan would all fit simultaneously within its borders.”